Unraveling Consumers’ Top 6 Hair & Scalp Concerns

Prestige hair care demand remained elevated through 2023, according to Circana data^a, led by double-digit growth in most care and styling segments. While mass hair care unit sales varied by category in the same period, the overall picture points to a healthy hair wellness sector. But what concerns are shoppers most focused on? New data points to six key claims opportunities for hair and scalp care brands.

Across every concern area, ingredients and claims are increasingly centered on skin care-inspired innovations.

In 2023, an analysis from Vantage Personal Care noted, “Consumers want hair care products with premium skin care ingredients and are actively seeking out products that contain them.” The analysis continued, “Actives in hair care are ‘skinspired,’ effective and address a multitude of top consumer hair concerns. From dryness to itchy, inflamed scalps to frizzy, damaged tresses, skin care active ingredients like hyaluronic acid, salicylic acid and niacinamide can remedy top consumer concerns while delivering beautiful, healthy hair.”

Taking cues from consumer trends such scalp care, hair slugging and clean/sustainable care, Vantage developed concept formulations including a Balancing Scalp Scaling Shampoo, 3-in-1 Renewing Serum, Eco Conditioner Powder and Recovery Balm-to-Oil Hair Mask.

To better understand the dynamics in the hair wellness category, Global Cosmetic Industry has analyzed recent consumer and market data, cross-referenced with emerging ingredient and product launches, to outline key concerns driving the greatest interest among shoppers.

1. Hair Growth

For brands seeking to break into rosemary-based hair care, private label beauty manufacturer Lady Burd has developed a revitalizing Rosemary Mint Shampoo. The sulfate-free formulation comprises rosemary and mint to gently cleanse all hair types.This one’s no surprise, but a peek into trending ingredients points to unique opportunities to capture shopper interest.

For instance, Google's new Holiday 100 for 2023, comprising gift ideas “based on trending searches throughout the year,” prominently featured Mielle's Rosemary Mint Hair Strengthening Oil. Since its launch, the SKU has been single-handedly responsible for a massive spike in online searches regarding rosemary and hair care; no wonder it soon became the top hair oil in the U.S. market (per the brand). 

The popularity of the oil stems from its rosemary-forward branding and ingredient deck. The hero ingredient is frequently associated with “hair growth” queries, making it a darling of the hair growth/revitalization category.

For brands seeking to break into rosemary-based hair care, private label beauty manufacturer Lady Burd has developed a revitalizing Rosemary Mint Shampoo. The sulfate-free formulation comprises rosemary and mint to gently cleanse all hair types.

Elsewhere in the hair growth space, Spate and Exploding Topics have identified growth-related ingredients turning up in more and more consumer searches, as of the fourth quarter of 2023.

Spate^b flagged classic African ingredient chebe oil adjacent to hair care in searches, spiking more than 65%, year-over-year. Key related concerns include hair growth, particularly in oil formats. That said, consumers are also heavily searching for information on chebe oil efficacy, requiring brands to explain and backup claims.

Exploding Topics^c, meanwhile, has flagged rising interest in biotin sprays on TikTok. Key related concerns in postings included growth as well as strength and scalp health.  

2. Damage Repair

Also on the Google Holiday 100 list was K18’s Hair Mask, a bond-building superstar designed to “repair damage from bleach and color, chemical services and heat,” according to the brand, leaving the hair soft and smooth, strengthened, and full of bounce.

The success of K18’s SKU and the brand in general attracted Unilever, which acquired the brand in late 2023. The timing was notable; just a few weeks earlier, Kline named K18 among the 25 beauty brands^d most ripe for acquisition.

For those keeping score, other hair sector brands on the Kline list included Coco & Eve (which also offers sun and skin care), Amika, IGK and Verb.

3. Well-aging for the Scalp

Ayurvedic care for the hair are on the rise, per recent Spate data. In particular, the firm has detected a nearly 50% year-over-year spike in searches pairing Ayurvedic oil and hair care, with key concerns including hair growth.progressman at Adobe StockProvital’s Kerascalp (INCI: propanediol (and) glycerin (and) Phyllanthus emblica fruit extract) was created to energize the scalp and, in turn, produce strong and healthy hair. The ingredient is meant to maintain hair anchoring and normal growth. The featured active ingredient, an extract of amla fruit, or Indian gooseberry, is a centuries-old Ayurvedic material known to help promote healthy hair.

Ayurvedic care for the hair are on the rise, per recent Spate data. In particular, the firm has detected a nearly 50% year-over-year spike in searches pairing Ayurvedic oil and hair care, with key concerns including hair growth.

“Kerascalp … is able to prevent follicle miniaturization by increasing expression of collagen XVII  (COL17A1) while reducing its proteolysis,” explains Nina Esposito, the marketing director of Provital in the United States. “It is also able to ensure melanocyte stem cell maintenance, which is related to premature hair greying."

Esposito adds, “Anti-aging hair and scalp claims are on the rise globally, with the U.S. and U.K. [markets] leading the way in recent launches [per Mintel data]. This falls in line with the overarching trend of skinification as it extends skin care principles to scalp care. Consumers want their well-aging routine to extend beyond their skin, and the scalp is a normal place to start!”

4. Pro-level Shine

In 2022, Spate^e reported an uptick in online searches for hair glosses. Related searches included terms such as treatment, at home, what is, clear, salon, for gray, glaze and shine. Searches for “at home” in particular pointed to a desire to achieve effects outside the salon.

Ouai recently leapt into the category with its Hair Gloss ($34), available at TheOuai.com and Sephora.com.

“Shine isn't just a glow; it's synonymous with vibrant, healthy hair—a feat that's often elusive or held to salon professionals,” says Diana Pratasiewicz, director of Ouai’s education content. “Unlocking that coveted shine at home is both convenient and impactful, allowing you to flaunt your hair’s brilliance effortlessly. As the skinification of hair takes center stage, individuals are shining the light on the outcomes of their dedicated hair care routines, embracing a healthier, radiant approach to hair care."

The gloss provides immediate shine while treating damage, enhancing color vibrancy and protecting against color fading, and defending the hair from heat damage up to 450° Fahrenheit.

The formulation, which works in straight, wavy, curly or coily hair, features key ingredients such as sugar beets, hyaluronic acid, rice water and panthenol.

“The fusion of skin care principles with hair and scalp care is fueling a wave of innovation in products,” says Pratasiewicz, “blending luxurious textures and powerhouse ingredients. Think peptides and hyaluronic acid—once skin care staples, now transforming your scalp and strands with similar benefits. Just as skin care routines layer on goodness, hair care is now being seen in the same spotlight, embracing a multi-layered approach to unleash the full potential of your hair.”

Gloss and shine claims are also driving new ingredient innovation. For instance, Nippon Fine Chemicals’ Lusplan range of plant-derived functional oils provide high shine and gloss, as well as strong adhesion and high moisture retention, in hair care applications.

5. Hormonal Shifts & Resilience for Thicker Hair

Lady Burd has developed a Scalp Oil for its clients. The vegan formulation comprises rosemary and mint to invigorate and nourish hair follicles.Hair loss and thin hair concerns are perennial hair care targets, but recent innovations have specifically targeted hormonal shifts and stress factors. To illustrate, Provital’s Densinaria (INCI: water (and) glycerin (and) Palmaria palmata extract (and) arginine) is a hair volume and strengthening active ingredient derived from a red algae known as dulce (Palmaria palmata), which is paired with arginine to boost hair volume and strength and prevent split ends.

The technology’s reconstructive biomolecules act on the hair cuticle to strengthen the hair, while Palmaria palmata's film-forming effects address split ends. Furthermore, the inclusion of arginine aids in the boosting of hair fiber resistance from the inside out, reportedly increasing fiber diameter by 25%, an impact similar to keratin, per Provital.

The fiber strengthening specifically addresses impacts of stress factors and hormonal shifts, according to the supplier.

“Densinaria strengthens hair fibers by creating hydrogen and saline bonds, improving structural integrity, and increasing tensile strength,” says Miguel Moreno, R&D project manager, Provital. “This reduces hair breakage, enhances fiber resilience and restores the overall hair structure. Additionally, proteins, peptides and polysaccharides can coat the cuticle surface, collectively fortifying the hair fibers and preventing the occurrence of split ends in hair.”

Moreno adds, “The impact of stress and hormonal imbalances on hair can result in issues such as disturbances in the hair growth cycle, thinning and changes in texture. In this context, Densinaria can enhance the appearance of thickness by adding volume and strengthen the hair to better define its texture.”

Densinaria is of 100% natural origin and is COSMOS-approved.

On the brand side, Act+Acre has launched a Stem Cell collection designed to support hair follicle health to encourage fuller and thicker-looking hair. The collection is designed to address hair loss and thinning associated with hormonal/post-natal issues, aging, stress, scalp conditions, oxidative conditions and more. SKUs include a shampoo, conditioner and the 3% Stem Cell Peptide Treatment, the latter of which features caffeine, which is often associated with hair revitalization.

The SKUs comprise caffeine, hyaluronic acid, and the brand’s H2-Grow Complex and H3-Grow+ Complex, featuring plant-based stem cells that reportedly support hair follicle health, with results seen in 12 weeks, per the brand.

As Global Cosmetic Industry reported in its September 2023 issue, Spate recently noted that terms such as “revitalizing” and “ageless” are the fastest-growing keywords accompanying consumer hair care searches. Revitalizing searches have grown 38% year-over-year, with popular examples including “thicker fuller hair revitalizing shampoo.”

The new Act+Acre collection is now available at Sephora and actandacre.com; individual SKUs are sold at Sephora, while a bundle of all three products is exclusively available at the brand’s site.

For brands seeking to get into the scalp care space, private label beauty manufacturer Lady Burd has developed a Scalp Oil for its clients. The vegan formulation comprises rosemary and mint to invigorate and nourish hair follicles. The oil is intended to be applied twice a week for dry scalp concerns, as well as protective styles.

Labels are customizable, with a minimum order of 12 pieces.

6. Guilt-free Color

As with skin care, hair care is increasingly focused on safe, often nature-derived ingredients. This is particularly true in the coloring segment. For instance, Croda’s EBC Crodafos MBAL range of bio-based phosphate esters support sustainable claims for permanent and demi-permanent hair color systems.Africa Studio at Adobe StockAs with skin care, hair care is increasingly focused on safe, often nature-derived ingredients. This is particularly true in the coloring segment. For instance, Croda’s EBC Crodafos MBAL range of bio-based phosphate esters  support sustainable claims for permanent and demi-permanent hair color systems.

According to the company, when an oxidative hair colorant containing Crodafos phosphate esters is mixed with a developer, the dye intermediate complex is structurally protected and can only be broken by shear stress during hair color application.

Therefore, the dye intermediate penetrates the hair cortex with a smaller molecular weight and can begin oxidation coupling for a higher dye uptake and faster hair coloring rate.

The range includes the following ingredients, all estimated to be 100% bio-based: EBC Crodafos CES MBAL for crème textures; EBC Crodafos CS20a MBAL for lotion textures; and EBC Crodafos HCE MBAL, for liquid textures.

References

^awww.gcimagazine.com/consumers-markets/news/22879218/us-beauty-sales-will-remain-strong-through-end-of-2023-circana

^bwww.spate.nyc/product

^chttps://explodingtopics.com/

^dbwww.gcimagazine.com/consumers-markets/news/22881528/25-indie-brands-ripe-for-acquisition

^ewww.gcimagazine.com/consumers-markets/news/22275638/spate-us-consumer-trends-in-color-correcting-foundation-overnight-lip-mask-hair-gloss